Ralph again. We slept in and ate breakfast at the hotel – the spread was very similar to what was available in our Munich hotel, and was more than enough to last us past lunch. We walked downhill to the Vtalva River, along its banks for a bit, then crossed one of the several bridges to begin the long climb up to Prague Castle.
They picked a good site for this castle. It is by far the highest point in Prague. From the riverbank, it is about a mile up at about a 4-5% grade, including a very long staircase. At the top is a square with the Castle Guards at the entry. They were poor examples of military bearing (constantly shifting their weight, looking around, etc) but at least they are topped by statues of Czechs stabbing and clubbing their enemies to death:
Prague Castle is actually a complex of several buildings, including a Gothic cathedral and the residence of the Czech president. [This is pretty typical of castles. The president asked to live in the castle. Previously, the royal family lived there.] You can get into the Castle courtyard for free, but to get into any of the buildings or museums within you need to pay a fairly steep admission fee. However, as a tourist, you’ve already spent 30 minutes climbing uphill to get to the place, so you are going to pay whatever the good Czechs charge (around $25/person to see nearly all the museums). We did, however, pass up on the audioguide, which was the right call – nearly all the museum signs were in English, and the audioguide was pretty expensive to boot. [Understatement – the audioguide was more than the cost of admission for three hours, more if you wanted it longer. You also had to pay a high deposit.]
First we saw St. Vitus’ Cathedral. It is, of course, gigantic. It is the burial site of St. Wenceslas (Vaclav in Czech), who is considered to be the patron saint and eternal ruler of Bohemia. (Yes, the Wenceslas from the Christmas carol).
Next we went through the museum on the history of Prague Castle. Honestly I expected this to be really boring but it turned out to be the most interesting part of the Castle complex. It wasn’t just about the Castle, but also about the history of Bohemia from prehistory until the Velvet Revolution against Czechoslovakia’s Communist rulers. [This is what I was most looking forward to. I was not disappointed. It’s interesting to hear some of the same stories from different viewpoints.]
Next we went to the Basilica of St George, a small basilica on the grounds:
[The St. George of St. George and the dragon.]
We also went to Golden Lane, a series of small two-room houses that were purchased from their modern owners and “reconstructed” to resemble medieval times. [The houses had been built into the niches of the outside wall. Originally for the castle guards, eventually they were bought and sold to anyone. The homes were one by one made to look “more medieval” by their owners who could then charge visitors admission to look around.] One of them was where Franz Kafka wrote A Country Doctor. That house, of course, is now a gift shop.
The upstairs of the houses contained many suits of medieval armor and a carnival game where you could shoot a crossbow at a target about thirty feet away. I thought I did pretty well until Lynnae tried her hand at it and landed two of three in the bullseye. [We have video of us shooting the crossbow but we can’t post videos here.]
For lunch we ate on the castle grounds. We had goulash in a bread bowl, a traditional Czech meal. Not too long after that we were kicked out of the palace grounds as it was closing for the day, so we sat on a wall on the edge of the castle grounds for a while enjoying the view:
Then walked through St. Wenceslas’ vineyard, which have been around for a long time and are the oldest in Prague. [Also the oldest in the Czech republic. It’s been around since 906 AD. It’s next to the castle grounds at the top of the hill so it also has great city views.]
We walked back to the hotel and ate leftover pizza for dinner (thankfully it had a minibar fridge).